Zeng Shengsheng: Revelation of Mountaineering Speaker: Zeng Shengsheng Topic: Inspiration from Mountaineering
Time: October 26th, 2000, 7:30 pm Venue: Multi-function Hall on the third floor of Guizhou Mansion (Note: Due to the drafting of the audio recording, some of the contents are inaccurate. Please understand)
Hello, everyone, with so many young friends with common ideals and hobbies, the feeling is different. I have been very willing to communicate with young people for many years. Today, we have a few people in our hearts and start talking in personal capacity. Discuss how to get started in the minds of many people. Let me tell you about my many years of experience, especially the lessons. Now I want to find out about the friends at the lecture site who have already had the experience of Snow Mountain. Good, very good, it seems that everyone has passed from the peak of 5 kilometers to 7 kilometers. I am very happy to see this phenomenon. Our country's mountaineering is closely related to the development of our country's various undertakings. In the past under the influence of the planned economy, mountaineering was also a planned mountaineering. At that time, everyone was mobilized by various industries, mainly industrial workers, students, and the People's Liberation Army. In order to complete a national task and organize mountaineering, there are dozens or even hundreds of people. But now it is different. Everyone is willing to go mountain climbing and volunteer to challenge nature and go beyond the limits. This new concept of small team climbing is also my dream for many years. I finally saw the development of the Chinese mountaineering movement to today's situation. Like mountaineering, willing to go mountaineering and asking me to go mountaineering, mobilizing me to go mountaineering is totally two kinds of mental states. Love mountains, love nature, create all the conditions to enter the mountains to experience life, experience the fun of climbing, beyond the limits of life, which is completely different from the meaning of mountaineering in the planned economy, so I thank Shanmei Tiandi, GORE Corporation Units such as wind, rain, and snow provided me with a face-to-face exchange. I was very touched by several friends who lived in the back row who lived in Tong County and came to this place to listen to a lecture on outdoor sports knowledge. , then I try not to waste everyone's time, to give everyone some real, meaningful things.
How do you start when you have a few ideas?
First, we must understand the object of climbing. We must have a clear understanding of the mountain conditions, individuality, and characteristics that are different from other mountain peaks. We must have a clear picture of the peaks, videos and texts, topographic maps, traffic maps, and surrounding residents. As much research as possible. Learn about the different scenery, climate, and oxygen content in the mountains. To understand the differences between mountainous areas and plain areas, the first and most important thing is to consider the problem of hypoxia. Understand what is going on with hypoxia in the mountains. In general, there is a criterion that at an altitude of 5000 meters, the oxygen content in the air is 1/2 of the plain, oxygen content above 7,000 meters is 1/3 of the plain, and 8000 meters above the oxygen content is less than the plain. /4. This is roughly a division of such a step. Most people reach the altitude of 3,000 meters or so, and they all have obvious feelings. Why do our country's mountaineering teams, track and field teams and football teams conduct so-called plateau training each year, hoping to train in areas with low oxygen content and release energy to high oxygen content competition venues. Kunming Haishu in China and Xining in Qinghai have such training bases. According to common sense analysis, the most dangerous place is 6000 meters. Passing the 6,000-meter mark, there should be no problem in adapting to the mountains below 8,000 meters.
Another problem is high winds. When winds come from high altitudes, they often cause frostbite and slip. When it comes to clouded weather, it can easily cause storms. When a snowstorm arrives, it is generally accompanied by severe cold and low temperatures. Lightning plus high winds. Oxygen deficiency, ice and snow walls, cracks, mudslides, ice avalanches, and mountain rapids. These are the common characteristics encountered when climbing mountain peaks. In addition to these commonalities, it is necessary to analyze the personality of the climbing object and learn about those mountains. The danger is very likely to occur, it is necessary to "prescribe the right medicine." A detailed plan was drawn up. In May, the peak of the Yuzhu Peak was thrown out and other factors were thrown out. The blizzard was a fatal hazard. Specifically analyzing the personality of the mountain peaks, which hazards are frequently occurring and which are less likely to occur. According to the characteristics of the mountain, prepare equipment, food, and make strict plans. The most unforgettable thing is that it is easy to forget before you leave and you must make a list. Physical training, organizing the team, which is roughly counted as knowing. However, the plan needs to be revised as the situation changes, and the occurrence of emergencies requires a strong resilience. Convulsions often cause unnecessary damage. As for the improvement of resilience, this is a process of accumulating experience in the mountains.
I will mainly talk about my experiences and lessons learned, as well as what I have done in the past.
One of the experiences: The easier it is to forget that something you can't forget, must list the required materials and prepare them one by one. Large tents and small matches must be carefully and carefully arranged.
The second experience: Selecting campsites must avoid danger in the mountains. This is a basic principle. In particular, there is a water source in the base camp, but it should not be too close to the river. In the evening, when a flash flood broke out, the highest water level in the middle of the night would drive away tents. The camp should be kept away from rolling stones, mudslides, where avalanches may occur, and the danger from mountains. When a known Japanese girl climbed in Nepal in 1988, her base camp suffered an avalanche and was killed. At the same time, a Japanese Nepalese expert was also killed. In 1991, the Meili Snow Mountain suffered an avalanche of 300,000 tons. All the camps were covered and everyone was killed.
Experience 3: The choice of mountaineering route, you can walk on the ridge, do not take the valley line. Try to avoid long marches in the valley. In the valley, there are usually bright and dark cracks, and how thick the glaciers are and how deep the cracks may be. Ice avalanche is also very likely to occur.
When marching on the ridge, you can avoid ice avalanches and cracks. But at the same time, it is easy to cause slips. I used to slide and self-protect myself. Others also slipped and also protected. This is a technical problem. At the time it was 7,400 meters in Everest in 1996. There was a tall player, slippery, and I and the rest of the team tried to protect and finally braked. Explain that grouping marches can effectively prevent slipping and is used properly. It is a good way to save lives.
Lesson 4: Start early, camp early and get to the destination as early as possible. Of course this is related to the characteristics of the mountain. In general, the morning winds in the mountains are small, the temperatures are low, the ice and snow are firm, and the march is steady and fast. In 1988, China, Japan, and Nepal crossed Mt. Everest. The three-way athletes marched three times in a row, and they did not pass the famous big tune. The main reason is because Japanese players strictly follow the time and get up too late. In the afternoon, this period of roads is very frequent. Later, when the Chinese team members received the order, they set off first and passed the big tune before 12 o'clock in the afternoon. The Japanese players followed the situation. Both direct experience and indirect experience are also wealth. One year, Tsinghua players in Yunmeng Mountain set off too late, causing them to lose their way. Therefore, we must march as early as possible and camp early.
Experience 5: Bad weather remains in the mountains. Good weather is used in the mountains. When you climb a mountain peak of over 6,000 meters, any forecast is not accurate. The microclimate cannot be completely predicted. It is only a general situation for reference. The role of the old mountaineering is reflected this time. How to judge the weather is to believe that the weather is good or bad. In the past, we classified the weather. First grade weather was below grade 7 and visibility was good. The second-class weather is around the eight-level wind. In this kind of weather, do not stay in low-level camps. Make use of the available weather. Do not miss out in places where there are no safety hazards. Do not expect good weather and good weather. Marching and sudden top. When we encounter a bad weather slightly, we stop climbing and we generally consume enough food to be forced to descend. This example is endless.
Sixth experience: Oppose and put an end to personal action. China has historically opposed individual mountain climbing, especially mountain climbing. Low mountains in the suburbs of Beijing, because of the dense forests, individual actions can easily lead to lost. On the snow-capped mountains, individual actions have a strong sense of loneliness. Loneliness can sometimes mad people. Li Zhixin, who climbed Mount Everest in 1988, was transported from 7800 to 8300 meters. When wind and snow arrived, visibility became lower. Snow mirror mirrors ice, and one mind actually forgot to knock out the snow dregs. A person alone in the snow storm, marched for more than 10 hours, because the telephone, radio waves can still be linked, and finally tolerated the lonely, in 1966, more than 400 people trained in Mount Everest, a player from the 7800 squat, back to 7400 When Mi Mi's transitional camp found his own knot rope was untied, he came back and found that the player behind him was gone. He later returned and found that he was hiding behind a stone, fearing to burden others and turning himself into a lonely situation. Confidence and will are almost lost. When you sit down, you don't want to get up.
Seventh experience: To prevent freezing. My fingers only suffered an ice injury in 5 minutes in 1960. Therefore, I often exercised, especially shoes, with at least 5-3 pairs of socks on the mountain, replaced with wet ones, guaranteed dry feet, and constantly grasped to prevent frostbite.
Lesson 8: Once you get lost, if you have conditions, you should camp on the spot. Don't blindly grab the time and run around. If you look hard, you may suffer from physical exhaustion, frostbite and even some serious accidents. A Japanese friend Gao Jian He Cheng has climbed Mount Everest and Chogori, and on the 2,000-meter hill in Japan, he lost his way for five consecutive days. Everyone thought that he was killed, but later because he dug a snow cave in the snow, escaped the storm and the weather was good. But two days later they fell to death on the same mountain. In 1993, a Chinese coach from the Chinese side of the mountain reached 6,500 meters and suffered severe frostbite. Therefore, once you have lost your way or encountered a snow storm, do not be blind, do not be impatient, and try your best to find a way out.
The ninth experience: Personal, collective equipment, to try, especially new shoes, try it out. There are also many reasons why many older players trust their old equipment. Equipment largely determines the success of mountaineering.
Tenth experience: Emergency foods, emergency water, and no use at all. A mature team member must keep a sip of water and a little bit of food after returning to the camp. Many of the foreign mountaineering tests strictly require that the team members return to the camp to have drinking water. This is also the main criterion for checking the qualification of a climber. Retaining yourself is the basic requirement for climbing.
Experience 11: Blind confidence is a taboo for climbers. Mountain danger is the natural enemy of mountaineering, and the natural enemy of the climber is blind self-confidence. In 1961 he climbed 7595 meters to the Goguer Nine Peak. The rope bridge was over the river and was destroyed by the flood. My coach and I went to check it. Because of blind self-confidence and pride, I almost died in this mountain rapids and I was criticized by the team for a week. Stressed safety. Scientific climbing, overcome blind confidence.
Twelfth experience: Believe in companions, everyone plays their own energy, team spirit is better, especially the command of the team.
Experience 13: Think backwards when you think ahead, and consider falling when you rise. In particular, the captain must consider the safety of the route. Mountaineers are scared to return with a familiar face. In the 1980s there was a friend Huang Drifting who had not thought of a good way back and was killed.
Lesson 14: Record the climbing process and summarize the experience of climbing. The summit is like going to heaven, but the climbing process is undoubtedly a hell. The mountaineering diary is left behind. The weather conditions, route difficulty and surrounding environment must be recorded. The record is also a sign of a mature climber.
Experience No. 15: Persistence is victory, faith is success, mountains and hills are the same, there is no perseverance, and the fragrant mountain also can't go up. A Japanese friend he met once climbed Mount Fuji once a month. “I don't dare to climb the rugged path in the mountains. In order to reach the top of the infinite scenery.
The mountains are beautiful and mysterious. Some dangers cannot be completely counted in the mind. People's exploration of the mountains is endless. As for the inspection of Mount Qomolangma, it has been around for more than forty years and has not been fully understood. Only Everest I have been to more than a dozen times, each time has a new understanding.
Finally, I hope everyone will be able to climb to the top of their own.
Live communication:
Q: Question of camp selection A: Avoid the wind and avoid the danger in the mountains.
Q: What to do when an avalanche occurs.
Answer: Try to avoid real avalanches and you can't run away. In 1984, I met with a wet avalanche and the airwaves were small. Our first knot was buried and later dug out by teammates. In the snow, there is a feeling of suffocation, the heart is beating fast, dying and struggling, thinking nothing.
Q: Is there any relationship between lung capacity and alpine reactions?
A: There is no big relationship.
Q: The question of training volume.
A: According to different targets, different training is performed. At present, China Civil Aviation General Hospital has a low-pressure cabin training. It is a single hypoxic training and friends can try it.
Q: Is it OK to march at night?
A: Poor visibility, limited battery and low temperature, and stable weather conditions must also consider the physical condition of the players and objectively allowable conditions.
Q: How do you choose a camp?
Answer: Look at the highest traces of flash floods. The camp should be higher than this trace. Avoid dangerous passages in the mountains.
Q: Is the risk of cracks great?
A: The biggest thing is that the worst thing is stuck in the ice seam. It can't go on and die. When you climb the hill and change your mind, the perseverance you develop will be useful to your life and work. If the mountain is not high, climbing will be rewarding.
Q: How to prevent lightning?
A: Put aside all the metal on your body.
Q: You have experienced numerous dangerous situations. When every danger comes, whether there is a sign?
A: There is no frankness, but it should be clear where there is a danger.
Q: The sense of direction.
A: Topographic maps, compass, but the basic problem is to map, to a location, to find their place, with maps and compass combination positioning
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