An analysis of the southeast slope of the sisterly peak of the great demon wind (East slope map)
Route description:
Due to the picture copy order, the sequence number before C2 is reversed. Can combine two pictures to see. A traditional perspective is the frontal image (sisters from Changpinggou), and the other is the deepest in Haizigou.
Perspective of the Office (Dongpo Image):
From Changpinggou into the mountains, in the dry Haizi (Shanghaizi) build a large camp, BC elevation of about 3500 meters;
ABC is about 4,500 meters above sea level, leading to C1 through the gravel area into the glacier area, there are bright and dark cracks on the glaciers;
7, C1 is about 5200 meters above sea level, C1 starts along the snow trough straight up, in the rock ditch builds the rope ladder to turn on the passway 5300 meters, directly reaches the bottom of the rock wall.
8. The stone avalanche in this passage is concentrated, and the bottom of the rock wall is cut to the left. There is bright ice on the rock wall, about 70 degrees, and the falling rock must be avoided. Going upwards, the steep rock on the left side is often accompanied by a falling rock avalanche and on the right is a steep snowfall.
Slope, for safety, use rock cone protection on the rock wall.
9. Go ahead and climb a 45-degree ice slope that is about 40 meters.
10, up to 120 meters in the snow wall of 3 sections, to reach the core of the snow tank submarine rock. Note that this route has about 20 meters of weathered rock piles.
11. The average gradient from the bottom of the submarine rock to the center is 45 degrees.
12. Before climbing to the first step, climb a steep snow ridge. There is a bladed ridge on the pinnacle of 5620 meters. After reaching the first step, a C2 is built at 5,750 meters above the ice slope.
From the C2 and later climbs, it is clearer to see the "Dongpo Image":
1. Cut 50 meters on a steep snow surface and reach the third level. (There is a bladed ridge on the pinnacle of 5620 meters. After reaching the first step, C2 is built at 5,750 meters above the ice slope.)
2, then straight up 20 meters to reach the snow ridge ridge line.
3, in the snow ridge line 15 meters to the shoulder.
4, from the shoulder here to the right line, along the ridge of the mushroom-shaped ice pack forward, need to climb 8 pitch.
5. After turning over the top of the mushroom-shaped ice pack, set foot on a 45-50 degree snow ridge.
6, there is a small mushroom-shaped ice pack forward, to reach 6100 meters, you can see a large diamond ice tower 50-60 meters high, all the way is a wide snow slope.
7. Detour from the right side of the diamond ice tower is a slope of less than 45 degrees. The final difficulty is to pass through the avalanche channel and reach the apex after crossing the snow.
Terrain description: C1 1 camp 5200 meters. On the glacier under the south wall of the sister peak. The position in the figure is estimated.
C2 Camp 2 is 5750 meters. The circle is slightly gentler. (first step)
A snow cap. The third step below the ferret should not be seen here.
B shoulders, this snow slug and shoulders are clearly seen in Changpinggou.
C mushroom ice pack top
D Slightly smaller mushroom-shaped ice pack
E Peak's Snow Falcon
F C1 - The starting cornice topography between C2
Between G C1 and C2, before the submarine-like rocks, a 20-meter weathered rock pile and a 120-meter-long snow wall.
J C1 - Between C2, the steep snow ridge before C2 that reaches the first step.
Peak description: I sister peak south peak
II Sister Peak Middle Peak
III Sister Peak North Peak
IV 5,920 meters of Beiwei Peak of the sister peak (invisible from Changgoufeng 5700)
V 5620m peak (Sister southeast ridge 5664 Weifeng, not visible in this picture)
Bring the arrow to the red line: Go down Changpinggou from the northwest side of the ridge. The southeast slope route C2 5750M goes down to the sister's south slope, and finally goes down to base camp (Gan Haizi).
After climbing from the north wall to the top of the MICK, the British highman, he evacuated along the northern ridge to the last base camp "Muzizi."
Remarks: This is a photo album that scans Mr. Okawa's “Goddess of Arashiyama.†He shoots from the deepest point of Haizigou in the southeast direction of Yaodong. He paid respects to Okawa's naturalism and environmental protection practice and spirit. From here, the top of the demon wind has three pointed points, do not know which one is slightly higher? The British MICK topped the summit with the North Peak and the North Peak.
In the image of the sister wall of the last sister sister, the red line shows the great climb of the British high man Mik in May 2002.
Replenishment: The submarine rock in the core of the chute is marked as "H"
Online number marked "10" on the road
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