Ice climbing guide: vertical ice climbing technology
The ice season is coming and experiencing the cool point of freezing. Today we will introduce vertical ice climbing in the basic ice climbing technology. Ice climbing is the foundation of ice climbing technology. Only by learning to climb, can you experience the charm of ice climbing. There are many footwork and technique skills in the actual climbing of the ice wall, but all kinds of skills are inseparable: triangular structure, front teeth into the ice, the correct wave.
(Photo: Will Gadd is climbing ice near Niagara Falls. Image: willgadd.com)
|| Ice climbing technology development Prior to the invention of the front teeth crampons and the curved technical ice axes, climbers were limited to cutting out the steps on ice and then climbing with the help of steps. This process also required ropes. Later, the 10-toothed crampons were invented. With the help of French ice climbing techniques, climbers were able to expand their activities on ice. But the French ice climbing technique, which emphasizes that all the ice teeth are in contact with the ice, still cannot help the climber to climb onto the steep ice surface. In the 1930s, the Grueville Company invented the crampon with its front teeth. German mountaineers took the lead using the crampons' front teeth to climb. Later, the frontal climbing technique was also called German technology.
The improvement of hail is also an important factor, straight hail is suitable for mountaineering, but it is not suitable for ice climbing. What made this improvement was Black Diamond and the founder of Patagonia, Ivan Joynard (we once talked about his story). In the 1960s, Joyinard was inspired by the techniques of the ice climbers in Scotland and invented the crooked hailstone, which is the current technology hailstone. This kind of hail is more likely to cut into the ice and hook, and is very suitable for climbing on vertical ice. With the help of the hard crampons with front teeth and the crooked technique, the climbers can also climb on the vertical ice.
|| Ice climbing With modern crampons and ice axes, climbing on a vertical ice wall isn't complicated. There are four steps:
- Sweep into the ice
- Kicking ice up
- Center of gravity
- Restoring balance
This process is similar to the following picture:
1. Sweep like ice; 2. Raise your left foot to kick into the ice; 3. Lift your right foot to kick into the ice; 4. Grab the center of gravity and keep it balanced (make sure you have three fixed points on the ice), then swing it again. Into the ice; 5. The right foot kicks the ice to rise; 6. The left foot kicks the ice to rise; The figure points out that the climber's center line is very important. Image Source: Network, Author unknown
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| Like the following figure:
Sweep into the ice. Image credit: George McEwan Collection
This seemingly simple process has a lot of points to note:
1. When the elbow is facing downwards - When the player swings his elbow as far as possible, do not lift it to the side. For example, the following figure is a bad swinging action:
Incorrect movements, the elbows are raised to the side, not conducive to force, photos Source: George McEwan Collection
2. Into the ice position should be positive - into the freezing point not too far from the center of gravity, into the freezing point and the center of gravity should be in a vertical line, otherwise it can not maintain three stable structure, as follows is an error:
Incorrect action, the ice position deviates from the center of gravity, and if the ice position is too close, so when pulling out the hail again, it is not a stable triangular structure (the center of gravity is not included in the triangle). Image credit: George McEwan Collection
The correct action should be:
The correct ice entry position, a vertical line into the ice position and the center of gravity, and a sufficient height, even if the right hand hail left the ice, it is a stable triangular structure (left hand, right foot). Image credit: George McEwan Collection
3. Maintaining the triangle structure - When playing back into the ice, the whole person should maintain the triangular structure shown in the figure above, in order to ensure stability, otherwise it will shake like a door, such as:
Incorrect actions did not maintain three stable structures. Image credit: George McEwan Collection
4. The buttocks are close to the ice when the player smashes - the buttocks close to the ice can maintain a triangular stable structure, but also can make a greater effort when playing.
The correct movement, hips close to the ice. Image credit: George McEwan Collection
5. After cutting or hooking the ice surface, make sure - after the ice has been cut or hooked on the ice surface, it should be secured before proceeding to the next action.
|| Kicking ice up After the ice smashes into the ice, the feet can begin to rise. After finding an accurate foothold, use the crampons' front teeth to cut into the ice and fix it firmly. In actual practice, pay attention to the following points:
1. The front teeth of the crampons should be cut into the ice vertically - this is the basic requirement for front tooth climbing, as shown in the figure:
With correct movement, the front teeth are cut perpendicular to the ice. Image Source: outdoorgearlab.com
With correct movement, the front teeth are cut perpendicular to the ice. Image credit: George McEwan Collection
Do not appear the following error actions:
Incorrect action, no vertical ice, not firm. Image credit: George McEwan Collection
Incorrect action, no vertical ice, not firm. Image credit: George McEwan Collection
2. Feet open, roughly on a horizontal line, keep shoulder width, inside eight characters or outside eight characters - feet open and keep at a horizontal line and shoulder width in order to maintain a triangular stable structure; The eight-character or outer eight-character can help the crampons' front tooth vertical ice surface, as shown in figure:
With the correct movement, the feet are open and the outer eight characters are open, and the front teeth are cut perpendicular to the ice. Picture source: mpora.com
The correct movement, the feet are out of character, shoulder width, with the front tooth perpendicular to the ice. Image credit: George McEwan Collection
Incorrect action, the front left tooth is not in the ice, and the feet are not shoulder width. Image credit: George McEwan Collection
|| The Center of Gravity After completing the first two steps, the body is in a bowed state. At this time, it is necessary to do a standing action: move the center of gravity upwards and keep standing again. This process should rely mainly on the force of the thighs, not on the arm.
With the correct action, the body is bowed after the ice is thrown in and the ice kick is lifted. At this time, the force of the thigh gradually stands up. Image credit: George McEwan Collection
|| Restoring balance After standing up, you should restore balance and keep your body in a stable triangle structure before you can repeat the movement of ice into the ice.
The correct movement, the body has a stable triangular structure. Image credit: George McEwan Collection
||Key Technologies: Stable Triangle
During the entire climbing process, maintaining a stable triangle structure is the most fundamental: whether it is swinging, kicking, or rising, there are always three fixed points, either two hands, one foot, or Two hands and one hand, and this triangular structure should focus on it.
In order to better understand and understand the technical process of climbing vertically, we have prepared a teaching video made by PeakMountainGuide.com. The coach in the video has repeatedly practiced the technical process mentioned above and has been stressing the following: Things:
- Maintain a triangular stable structure
- Correct ice kicking
- Keep your feet roughly at the same level
- Hips stick to ice on time
The article was transferred from the public number: Above the snow line (ID: xuexianzhishang) author's snow line, reproduced has been authorized.
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